Our Second Full Day in Habana on our own! Nov 12

Today, we arise and go out and find breakfast. We actually go into a large hotel just to see how the Europeans do it and breakfast is lackluster at best and it costs $70 by the time we get out of there! We’re glad we didn’t try this before! Tummies satisfied, we walk around the top floor of the hotel and find an outdoor patio for a view. Strange art sculpture adorn the lobby as we leave.

We spy a form of transportation that we have not, as of yet, ridden in and we approach them with the intent to get a ride. Alas, we are disappointed when we are quoted a higher price that even the Classic Cars charge! The miser in me comes out, especially after the outrageous breakfast and we decline the ride.

A stroll around the area reveals more graffiti art and our cameras are happy once again. Even a poster of an ex American President shows up!

I haven’t posted many photos of local Cubans to date, so it is time to put some up. I hope you enjoy!

Street scenes and live music in a park and it’s time for a cool beer again in the uncomfortable heat and humidity!

The band engages us and we party with them for a bit. See their latest moracca player! We meet more tourist and make new friends!

A typical street scene!

More fun shots from our walk on the Malecon…

Other fun street scenes that didn’t make it into a category!

More uncategorized images, transportation vehicles and an outdoor restaurant for lunch.

Our last dinner at Habana 61!

One more evening in town and I’m not tired yet. While Elee retires for the evening, I bring a cigar and some honey with me and go back to the local park with the live music and I order a cold brew and meet a couple from Europe with the same thought. I offer them some of the honey and show them the trick the Cuban farmers taught me with the honey cigar filter and we become fast friends and they let me photograph them! If you guys see this, please comment and get in touch!

So I’ll say adios for the evening and retire. For tomorrow, our trip will be over and we go back home. Cuba has been a marvelous trip. Compliments of my late Mom who feared for me traveling but always wanted to see where I would go next. This trip was for you, Mom!

An unplanned day in La Habana, Nov 11

So we wake up today with no planned tours, a day to ourselves! We find breakfast in a local restaurant because our Casa does not serve breakfast here. But the is Havana and there is food everywhere! We walk around marveling at the old construction and all the old classic cars. This place is a step beck in time.

Without much difficulty we find a street fair we have heard about on Paseo del Prado, otherwise known as Paseo de Marti, and we walk along checking out all the local art on display. It is just few steps away from Telégrafo and Parque Central hotels, this is a place that grabs passerby’s attention, not only by its privileged location but also by the items on sale. We see tons of vivid paintings that depict the Tropical feeling around us. There are street landscapes full of Old American Cars and lovely people walking, portraits in watercolor, charcoal drawing and much more! At the end of Paseo del Prado, we come across the Malecon (A seawall and walkway along the coast) and an interesting old fort, ‘La Punta Fort’. We cross the boulevard and walk around the fort after paying $1 each to go inside and my camera stays happy. Views of the fort overlooking the modern part of Havana give striking contrast to our surroundings.

We cross back over the boulevard and walk back along the street fair on Paseo del Prado where we buy our obligatory art piece from an artist that, in our opinion, best represents Cuba. But we ask the artist to remove the canvas from the stretcher frame so we can transport it in our luggage and she does so happily.

We take the painting that the artist conveniently rolls up and puts into a tube for us and we walk back to our Casa to put it in our luggage so as not to have to carry it around. Interesting graffiti on walls and doors abound here. Parking lots of old classic cars where, for about $30/hour, you can get a tour of Havana. We did that yesterday. We pass by ‘La Florida’ again and true to the info on our tour yesterday, this place is hopping and it isn’t even noon!

Okay, painting put away safely. on to walking in a new direction and new, or is that old, sights to see. A street vendor’s cart full of produce, this is how it’s done in Cuba! A very old church and a park and we come across El Chanchullero where we’re told we can get the best and cheapest cocktails in Old Havana! So we go in, being lunchtime, and go upstairs for a view, lunch and cocktails and beer. We only had to wait for 5 minutes to get a table, but when we came out an hour later, there was an hour long line to get in! I guess timing is everything!

Back into the streets of Old Habana, we walk around with our cameras happily snapping away, street scene after street scene of colors and textures greet us. It is common to find artistic murals on walls and sculptures on the sidewalks as we take in this wonderful place. The old classic cars make you wonder if you have really taken a time machine ride!

The people are as colorful and different as the architecture, from young children playing in the streets to street musicians trying their best to make a buck to bicitaxis with interesting names to policemen comparing notes on their cell phones to school children in uniforms to random workers taking breaks in the oppressive heat. School is free to all in Cuba all the way through University! But, as evidenced by what we see in all cities and towns here, all students wear uniforms. It appears that the color of your school uniform denotes the section of school you are in. Blue is the youngest, then gold, then to the teenagers in brown and University Students wear Blue & White.

Looking at my pre-travel notes, I am reminded of a place to visit that is not open tomorrow so we hire a bicitaxi to take us over into the newer part of Habana to a place called, “Callejón de Hamel” (Hamel Alley)

This is a cultural project that is an entire street of poetic images and sculpture that you have to walk through, a place for dancing rumba (which, unfortunately was not going on today) and experience the authentic presence of the African roots in Cuba. “The Hamel Alley” is an explosion of Cuban creativity, colors and Cuban Pop Art.

Our eyes and camera lenses saturated with all the magnificent colorful art displays and buildings, we pass by a local schoolyard where the students seem like animals in a cage just waiting to be set free.

We come to the Malecon and start walking the few miles back towards Old Habana. The ocean scenery, old cars and architecture take us back again in the time machine. The architectural richness of the Malecón is expressed through 18th- and 19th-century stately homes, followed by a row of 20th-century buildings with an unusual combination of styles and profusion of portals, columns and pilasters that loosely follow classical lines. But beyond the architectural values of the buildings, its greatest charm lies in being somewhere to stroll or hang out on a stiflingly hot day. We see couples making amends, and many children and fishermen. It is Havana’s outdoor lounge.

A couple hours later, we make it back to Old Habana but the time machine has left us in the past with the old classic cars and more old architecture.

Walking back through Old Habana towards the shipyards, horse drawn carts are everywhere and outdoor cafes abound because it is more pleasant to be outdoors than in unless you can afford air conditioning here. As I have pointed out before, glass windows are an expensive commodity in Cuba that only the wealthy can afford. Open air stored for the most part some with security bars for protection, but very few glass windows. We get lucky and find a bar with glass windows AND air conditioning and we stop for a brief respite for a cool Mojito and a cold beer. It is also our luck that within a few minutes of being there, a guitar player walks in and starts practicing his craft with some salsa music! So my camera is happy with more up front and personal photos and our wallets are unhappy, but satisfied with less tip money in them!

Back out in the streets, the scene is a bustling art show. Art stores all the way up this street and artists that try to pull you in for a sale. Some are willing to pose for free, but most of them want you to buy something first.

We found an old cathedral to check out! We don’t pass up the chance to get some photos both inside and out.

Then back out onto the streets to see the sights… Old Cars, Bicycle delivery carts, A building I dubbed, “Halfdome”, cruise ships in the harbor, a train that claimed to be Cuba’s first train and live music in the streets!

We come across an old Rum Factory that still functions and they offer tours. So in we go and we sign up for a tour that start in a few minutes. We are taken through the factory and shown how the rum is made. There is even a model train layout of the factory in it’s heyday! Vats of aging rum are on display and the smell of rum and oak are heavy in the air! We finish the tour in the gift shop, where we buy Cuban Rum and find a few more cigars to bring home!

Our Cuban connection that helped us plan our trip has made reservations for us at a place called “Habana 61”. We show up at the suggested time and find the place is reservation only. We are seated and they take the best care of us. The food is splendid and we dine in luxury. Well, luxury for Habana anyways! The price is very modest and we get out of there without any major rift in our wallets. Thank you, Yilliam!

Back into the city for the rest of the night, we go into El Floridita for drinks. But my camera calls and informs me that it hasn’t had much of a chance to take night photos in the city and it is starving for attention! So I leave Elee with two bright and vibrant your ladies to visit with and I take a stroll with the camera and tripod. An hour later, I come back to enjoy a cool libation with her and find her happily chatting away with these new friends!

This day complete, we walk the 2 or 3 blocks to our Casa and retire for the evening!

An Evening of Intriguing Art and Music! Nov 11

As the sun sets on the Malecon, we get a taxi to another attraction in Habana that we have been told not to miss.

So our taxi brings us across Habana to our destination for the evening. But it’s still early and our tummies are rumbling again. We walk back to the Malecon in search of a restaurant and we come across an interesting old castle turned restaurant and we go in only to find that a wedding has reserved the place for the evening. So out we go and we find another old building turned restaurant and we go in to find an acceptably priced place to eat and we enjoy a seafood dinner. After dinner, we head back to our evening location to find another pair of lovers that I create an artistic photo to remember them by.

We get back to the place we want to check out, the “Fabrica de Arte Cubano” or “Cuban Art Factory” and we get in the cue. There are approximately 50 or so people in front of us and we chatter happily with a few that speak English while we wait about 30-45 minutes for the place to open. Once inside, we find all kinds of eclectic art displays with at least 6 or 8 well stocked bars to keep everybody filled with cool libations. Music of many kinds play, from live bands to DJ’s and there are at least three rooms that are showing movies and tv shows of one kind or another. I even end up taking part in a live photographers studio and am given a card with an emotion printed on it and I am photographed trying to show that emotion. I take away a business card with a website and am told to visit that site this coming April to see the final photos.

After a fun night visiting some very strange art, we grab a taxi back to our Casa and retire for the evening! See you tomorrow!

We head for Habana! Nov 10

So we order breakfast for 7:30 AM and Alian picks us up promptly at 8 for our trip back to Habana (not a typo, it’s how they spell it in Cuba). I snap this shot in our Hostal right before we leave. Has anyone heard of any of these camera brands?

Different road signs and sights along the way!

We arrive in Habana and check back into the same apartment as we had our first night! Then we head out in the streets to start checking out this city in depth. We even spot a section of roadway where they have left what’s beneath it for viewing!

We have not a moment to spare as we have a city tour and old classic car tour scheduled. We head out in the direction of the Plaza de San Francisco and we meet our guide, Carlos, under the statue of Father Junipero Serra with a small boy at the San Francisco de Asis Convent. To me, the statue was rather creepy. Please comment if you like!

Carlos takes us around and educates us on a lot of the history of Old Habana and we see a lot of very clean streets of old cobblestone.

An old presidential limousine passes us and we come across the favorite bar of Ernest Hemmingway where we step inside to see a group of live musicians playing very spirited music!

We walk around Capitolito Plaza where tourists (not from the USA) can stay in government owned hotels for a meager $275 per night! (We spent 10 nights in Cuba and barely spent that much total) Parks and statues and lots of Classic American Cars everywhere you look!

And of course, we check out Sloppy Joe’s Bar La Habana!

Finally, it’s time for the fun part of the tour. Carlos brings us to his driver and we get into a 1948 Chevy Convertible for a tour of the rest of Havana. We drive around the Capitol and throughout New Havana past parks and statues. We pass a place called the Agencia Cubana de Rap and wonder what that is about. Before we’re done, I even get photos behind the wheel of this gorgeous old Chevy!

We drive further and end up returning to Capitolito Plaza via the Malecon near sunset. A walk down to the harbor reveals the Cruise Ship business is alive and well here!

Carlos then takes us to a rooftop bar where we are taught how to make a Mojito and we sit and enjoy it. Then we are invited to make our own and Carlos tastes them and rates us on our drinks. We both get a ’10’, but you knew that, right? Sunset photos intact and we bid Carlos adios!

We find an open air restaurant near the harbor in Old Town and sit and enjoy live entertainment during dinner.

It’s been another long day, so we say goodnight. See you tomorrow!

A very old place! Nov 9

We ask for breakfast at 8 AM and our host aims to please! Mariana makes us omelettes, fruit plates, breads, great Cuban coffee and more!

Then we head out into the town to meet up with Gonzalo, our morning tour guide. We have looked at the itinerary for the tour and we suddenly realize that it is the same agenda as Luda’s tour yesterday. As we head into the square to meet up with Gonzalo, we see the same guitar player as yesterday, sitting and playing in the same spot. So we listen for a bit, drop a peso in his cup and find Gonzalo. We explain to Gonzalo our ‘double booking’ mistake and ask him if he can show us something different since we paid in advance for his tour. Gonzalo knows that I am a photographer so he takes us around for some fun photos and we even get a glimpse of Cuban humor (Check out ‘Trump Tower’!). A bar that is a tribute to the Beatles, local transportation, a child learning to ride his bicycle on the cobblestone streets makes me wonder how many skinned knees it takes to become proficient! Another pristine old Chevy and even farmers on horses and a roof repair in progress enters into my camera lens.

Gonzalo takes us to a photographer friend of his and we sit in his house and visit as he shows us one of his recent works where he photographed charcoal makers throughout the night burning charcoal piles. I wish I could show you some of his work, but I respect his copyrights. Let me just say that he is one of the best photographers I have ever seen. His use of lighting and his ability to capture expressions and emotions on faces was extraordinary! After, we walk around some more, finding more fun things to point my camera at. Even a private house that set up a table to sell pizza and drinks to make money! Gonzalo helps us locate our next tour for the afternoon and takes us there. We bid him ‘Adios’ and feel enriched again!

We are ushered into a waiting area where we are shortly met by Leonid (Call him Leo) and he brings us out to his driver and co-host, Yosney (Call him Yosney). They become our tour guides for the next 3 hours and we
depart to a lookout point 112 meters above the Valley of the Sugar Mills, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. As we walk in, we pass by some vibrant and fun tourists coming out! We buy bottles of water and refresh as we look over the valley and even find an old sugar cane press.

Then we make our way to the San Isidro Plantation, and I head up the narrow steep steps for views of the Plantation. Afterwards, we explore an archaeological site where we learn about the darker side of the region’s history. We see what was involved in sugar production, and where alcohol was made to produce rum.

A walk around the ruins and we see the old ovens where the sugar cane juice was boiled and turned into rum. The work was all done by slaves. Rows of furnaces where the juice would flow and boil. I can only try to imagine what it was like for the slaves to work the hot ovens in Cuba’s already hot and humid weather!

We head out again along the rural roads. We see livestock fences where they actually plant live trees to use as fenceposts! A ‘roadblock’ slows us for a moment and then we are on the way again. We make our way to what used to be the family house of the Manaca Iznaga plantation, and I head up its 45-meter tower for views of the area. Because of the steepness and the height, I’m the only one that chooses to climb. (I’ll ALWAYS climb for a view!) I bump into some fun European tourists and take photos for them as I am wont to do. After I come down reluctantly, we get to see the original machine that was used to extract the sugarcane juice.

Views looking out over the area are spectacular!

We drive away and head back towards Trinidad where, at the end of the tour we visit a pottery work-shop. We watch potters in action and end up purchasing a Cuban ashtray to compliment my stash of Vinales cigars!

Leo and Yosney drop us off back near the central square in Old Trinidad and we thank them for the tour. But it is almost mid-afternoon and our tummies are growling. So we go into a recommended restaurant, Taberna La Botija, and sit down for some Cuban Pizza and cold refreshment!

Our ‘friend’, the guitar player is still working his craft as we walk out into the streets and we have the rest of the afternoon to ourselves. So my camera is happy and it finds many sights to capture. Rustic old buildings, horse drawn transportation, and many local faces and musicians that are more than willing to smile for my camera (and a Peso or two!). Even a local drink recipe emblazoned on a wall sign of a bar that goes by the same name and some street art!

We are told that the best place to see the sunset here is a peninsula a few miles south of us called “Playa Ancon”. In talking with locals and our host, we are told it can be very crowded with tourists, one thing that we are trying to avoid on this vacation! We are told to go to “Playa Maria Aguilar” and we will get the same sunset views without all the tourists. So we trust this information and we negotiate with a taxi driver to take us there for 10 CUC ($11 US Dollars). He drops us off and even agrees to come back and get us after the sun drops out of sight and take us back for another 10 CUC. So we hang out on a pretty much deserted beach for a couple hours and our cameras (and toes) are happy!

Back in town, we find a Restaurant recommended to us, “Guitarra Mia” and we sit down to a tasty meal with some live entertainment, which we are finding quite common here in Trinidad. I highly recommend this city if you ever come to Cuba! When we paid our bill, the waitress gave me a hand rolled Cuban cigar!

So armed with full bellies and a fresh cigar, we head out into the streets where we find live music everywhere. We go into a bar where the music sounds good and the skies open up and it rains. The bar is open aire, but we find a table under a roof where we enjoy my latest cigar and drinks while a musical group prepares on a covered stage. After the rain lets up (which we find is a regular occurrence in Cuba), we go back out in the freshly washed air and come across an open air stage that is setting up for a children’s Christmas Play due to begin around 11 PM. We stay for a couple acts and the actors are very much into their craft! But not understanding what they are saying, we get the gist of the play, somewhat, and we are tired so we head back to our Hostal for the night.

Day is done! We’ll see you in the morning!